Whether you have a handful of slipped tiles or a flat roof that has started letting in water, it is worth having the problem looked at before the damage spreads.
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A roof repair is any targeted work that fixes a specific fault without replacing the whole roof. That might mean re-bedding a ridge tile, repointing a chimney, resealing flashing around a dormer, patching a section of felt on a flat roof, or re-laying a run of slipped slates. The aim is to stop water getting in, restore the roof's integrity, and avoid unnecessary expense.
Not every leak means a full replacement. Plenty of roofs that look tired from the ground are structurally sound and will last many more years with targeted repair work. Equally, some roofs that seem to need a simple patch are actually failing more broadly, and a repair would only delay the inevitable. Honest advice on which situation you are in is the most useful thing a roofer can give you.
The faults that most commonly cause leaks on pitched roofs include slipped or broken tiles and slates, failed mortar on ridge and hip tiles, cracked or lifting flashing around chimneys and dormers, and blocked or damaged guttering that forces water back under the eaves. Any of these can allow water into the roof structure, where it may travel some distance before appearing as a stain on a ceiling.
Flat roofs have their own set of common faults. Split or cracked felt is probably the most frequent cause of leaks. Felt degrades over time as it expands and contracts with temperature changes, and splits tend to open along seams or at low points where water sits. Blistering and bubbling happen when moisture becomes trapped beneath a layer of felt during installation or gets in later; the blisters themselves may not leak immediately, but once they burst or are walked on, water finds a way through. Failed seams and laps, where two sheets of felt overlap, are another weak point, especially on older roofs where the bond between layers has broken down.
Loose felt edges and upstands, where the felt turns up against a parapet wall or fascia, are a common source of leaks that can be hard to trace. The edge lifts, wind gets under it, and water follows. Flashing and wall junctions fail for similar reasons: the mortar that holds lead or aluminium flashing into a brick joint eventually erodes, the flashing pulls away, and the gap behind it lets in rain. Rooflights and lanterns can leak at their frames or at the upstand where the roof membrane meets the unit. Pipes, vents and flues that pass through a flat roof are sealed with collars or lead soakers, and these seals degrade over time.
Standing water, or ponding, is worth a specific mention. A flat roof is not truly flat; it should have a slight fall so that rainwater drains away. If water sits for more than 48 hours after rainfall, the fall is insufficient or the drain is blocked. Ponding accelerates the breakdown of felt, adds weight to the structure, and will eventually find its way through any weakness. It is not always possible to re-fall an existing roof cheaply, but clearing drains and in some cases adding drainage outlets can reduce ponding significantly.
The decision between repairing a roof and replacing it comes down to the age and overall condition of the covering, the extent of the damage, and whether a repair addresses the root cause or just masks it. A pitched tile or slate roof with one or two broken slates that is otherwise in good condition is an obvious candidate for repair. A flat felt roof that is 20 or more years old, has multiple splits, widespread blistering and ponding, is probably better replaced than patched, because patching one area often just shifts the failure point to the next weakest spot.
A reasonable rule for felt flat roofs is that if more than around a third of the surface has failed or is close to failing, a full re-felt is usually better value than repeated patch repairs. A good roofer should be able to tell you honestly where your roof sits on that spectrum after a proper inspection, not just from a glance from the ground.
When a full re-felt is the right call, the work involves stripping the old felt back to the decking, inspecting the boards underneath for rot or damage, replacing any that have failed, and laying new felt in layers. Mineral-surfaced cap sheet is a standard finish. EPDM rubber membrane is an alternative that tends to last longer than traditional torch-on felt and is increasingly used on domestic extensions and garages.
This is the question most homeowners in Lakenheath want answered before they call anyone, and it is a fair one. Roof repair costs vary considerably depending on the type of fault, the size of the area affected, the height and accessibility of the roof, and the materials involved. The figures below reflect typical current UK ranges; your actual cost will depend on what is found when the roof is inspected.
These are honest working ranges. A very small, straightforward repair on an accessible single-storey roof will be at the lower end. A larger area, a high or awkward roof, or one where the decking boards are rotten will cost more.
Roof height and access. A single-storey extension or outbuilding is quick to access from a ladder or small scaffold tower. A two or three-storey property, or one with a complicated roofline, may need full scaffolding. Scaffold erection and hire typically adds £500-£1,200 or more to a job, depending on how long it is needed and how much of the building needs to be covered.
Rotten or damaged decking. On a flat roof, the felt sits on timber decking boards. If those boards have been wet for a long time, they will be soft and may need partial or full replacement before new felt can be laid. Replacing decking adds both material and labour costs. A roofer who quotes for re-felting without lifting any felt to inspect the deck first is cutting corners.
Number of felt layers. Older flat roofs sometimes have two or even three layers of felt built up over many years of previous repairs. Each additional layer has to be stripped and disposed of before new felt goes on. Disposal costs money, and the extra labour adds time.
Lead work. If a chimney or parapet requires new lead flashing rather than just a re-seal of existing flashing, lead is priced by weight and has become significantly more expensive in recent years. A full lead re-flash on a chimney stack can add several hundred pounds to the cost compared with a simple mortar repoint.
Hidden damage. Leaks that have been present for some time often cause secondary damage: wet insulation, stained or softened plasterboard, damp timbers. Dealing with this is usually separate from the roofing work itself, but a thorough inspection should flag it up.
Emergency call-outs. Storm damage that needs immediate attention, particularly out of hours, will typically cost more than planned work. Out-of-hours call-out rates vary, but expect a premium for urgent work at short notice.
Catching the problem early. A small split in felt or a single slipped tile caught quickly is a minor repair. Left for a season, water works into the deck, insulation and structure, turning a £200 job into a £1,500 one. An annual visual check from the ground, or a loft inspection after heavy rain, costs nothing and can save a great deal.
Good access. If a repair can be reached safely from a standard ladder or a low scaffold tower, you save the cost of a full scaffold. Single-storey extensions, garages, outbuildings and bungalows all tend to be cheaper to repair than taller buildings for this reason.
Simple, localised faults. A repair that is limited to one clear area, with sound decking underneath and no secondary damage, is straightforward to price and carry out. The more defined the problem, the lower the cost.
Using felt rather than EPDM. For a straightforward re-felt where longevity is less of a priority (an outbuilding, say, rather than a main house extension), traditional torch-on mineral felt is cheaper than EPDM. EPDM typically lasts longer, but the upfront cost is higher. Both are legitimate options depending on the situation.
Combining work. If you need a flat roof repair and have noticed a few slipped tiles or a loose ridge at the same time, having one roofer deal with both in a single visit reduces the overall cost compared with two separate call-outs.
A localised split in felt can be repaired with a patch of compatible felt bonded over the damaged area. The patch needs to extend well beyond the split on all sides, and the underlying felt must be sound enough to bond to. If the split is part of a wider pattern of cracking or the felt is generally brittle and degraded, patching one split is likely to be a short-term fix at best. A professional inspection will tell you whether a patch is worthwhile or whether re-felting is the better call.
Small blisters can sometimes be cut open, dried out and re-sealed with a patch. However, blistering across a significant area usually indicates moisture problems within the felt layers or the deck, and patching individual blisters is rarely a lasting solution. If blistering is widespread, a full assessment is needed to decide whether spot repairs or full replacement makes better sense.
Yes. Flat roofs need a minimum fall of around 1:80 (about 12mm per metre) to drain properly. Persistent ponding shortens the life of the felt, can mask leaks, adds structural load, and encourages moss and algae growth. Clearing blocked outlets is the first step. If the fall is genuinely inadequate, options include adding drainage outlets, installing a tapered insulation system that creates fall within the build-up, or accepting that re-roofing with a proper fall is the only proper fix.
Leaks on flat roofs are notoriously difficult to trace from inside the building. Water can enter at one point and travel along the deck or through insulation before dripping through a ceiling some distance away. From the outside, look for obvious damage: splits, open seams, bubbles, lifted edges or flashing that has pulled away from a wall. The most reliable approach is a methodical external inspection by someone who can safely access the roof and knows what to look for.
Most felt repairs need dry conditions to bond properly. Emergency patch repairs can sometimes be done in damp conditions using specific cold-applied compounds, but these are often a temporary measure to stop the leak until proper conditions allow for a lasting repair. Torch-on felt work should not be carried out in rain. If you have an active leak in bad weather, a temporary cover or waterproof membrane applied over the damaged area may be the most practical immediate step.
It depends on what is found when the felt is lifted. A responsible roofer should inspect the decking as part of any flat roof repair and advise you if boards need replacing. Laying new felt over rotten boards is poor practice: the new felt will move, split and fail prematurely, and the structural integrity of the roof is compromised. Any decking replacement needed should be specified clearly before work starts, along with the cost.
If your flat roof is under around 15 years old, has a localised fault, and the decking is sound, repair is almost always the right first step. If the roof is older, has multiple failures, widespread blistering or splitting, poor drainage, and suspect decking, replacement is usually better value. A patch on a roof that is broadly failing just moves the problem. The honest answer depends on a proper inspection, not a quote given without anyone going up to look.
Get in touch to discuss what you have noticed and arrange for the roof to be properly inspected.
If you have noticed a damp patch, spotted a problem from the ground, or want to know whether your flat roof is worth repairing or needs replacing, call us to arrange a roof survey. A good roofer will tell you honestly what they find, what needs doing, and what it is likely to cost before any work starts.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
